How to treat grubs

grub damage

I spoke a couple days ago about grubs and grub damage. After reading that, and you determine you actually have a grub problem (not just a few grubs), then it is time to do something about it. But what?

For the environmentalists amongst us, I will mention Milky Spore and
beneficial nematodes. Both are bio-controls of grubs. Neither should be used when a grub problem is present, because they won’t work to do much for your current grub problem.
If you are of the belief that you, under any circumstance, your customer will never allow use of an insecticide on a lawn insect problem, then maybe you could give it try. But only before the grub problem pops up. That’s when to use it.
They can be expensive and tedious to apply to the lawn, but you may get some benefit from it.

After saying all that, its time to take care of your grubs. If you have an existing grub problem, the best product in most situations is DYLOX 6.2 G. It’s sold in different forms, but most likely in a granular material in a 30 lb bag. For most grubs, it requires about 3#s per 1000 sq ft. always read your label and follow the correct label rate fro your situation. More is never better, and often times in Lawn care, it can even worsen a situation.

Once applied to the lawn, it must be watered in pretty well before too long. You do not want to let Dylox sit out in the sunlight because the sun will begin breakdown the active ingredient, thus making it less effective. You bought the product, and you should get the most out of it.
You also need to get it where the grubs are and that is in the soil, not on top of the lawn.

Late summer and early fall is when you will see new grub activity. You will want to treat the grub problem as early as possible because you don’t want to do it in spring time when they will be much harder to control as they mature.

After watering it in, the Dylox will be ingested by the grubs, and they will stop feeding immediately on the roots. They will not however just disappear. They stop doing the damage, but can take a while to fully die and decompose. You will see grubs in the area still or even animal damage from hungry skunks.
This doesn’t mean it isn’t working. It most likely is, but you can’t control the skunks and raccoons from digging around and eating the dying grubs. If damage has occurred you may renovate and seed the area.
There are other products labeled for grubs like Sevin, Grub-X, merit, Mach2 and so forth. Merit (imidocloprid) and mach 2 are prevention products, and are not effective on existing grubs.

Sevin is another broad spectrum insecticide that is labeled for grubs. I prefer Dylox, because SEVIN needs heavy irrigation or else it gets hung up in the thatch layer and never gets to the grubs. Sevin also can harm earthworms and other beneficial organisms. Dylox doesn’t exhibit these same characteristics and moves throughout the soil fast. Dylox doesn’t have much residual; it only treats what is active.

One BIG pet peeve of mine is retail stores and GRUB-X. Not either one really, but the marketing that is employed. Homeowner’s walk into a garden center or big box retailer looking for something to control the grubs eating the lawn. Right out in front of the aisle is a BIG display of shiny black and red bags with a picture of a grub on it. It says GRUB-X, it’s made by SCOTTS, and so it must be good. They spend 25 bucks for the 5000 sq ft bag, apply it and what happens? Nothing most likely. Why? Because Grub-X is a prevention product and needs to be applied at a certain time before the grubs are eating your lawn. Simply put, Scotts and retailers are putting one over on you as a homeowner. The product itself as a prevention (imidocloprid or Merit) is a great product, but only when used properly. Treating your hungry grubs is not using it properly.
For a homeowner this can mean.

1. Waste of time
2. Waste of money
3. Grubs keep creating more damage
4. Homeowner get frustrated
5. Homeowner buys more Grub control, and seed to repair the area

Lots of waste in there!

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10 responses to “How to treat grubs

  1. i have a grub problem in my front yard. its 45 feet by 56 feet dimensions. About 60% of the lawn is dying right now. how should i go about my problem. Should i just take care of the dead patches and spray my lawn or should i just dig up the entire yard and reseed or resawd the whole thing. any awnsers to this problem would be greatly appreciated thanks

  2. Grub Killer will only kill grubs where they are present. Use A product called Dylox and water it in on the areas affected and nearby areas. You can then seed the affected areas. no need to reseed or sod the entire yard, just the affected areas. You can seed immediatey after applying the grub control. It will have no effect on the seed.

    Good Luck

  3. I have a large area of my front yard that grubs are taking over. I plan on putting some sevin down september 1st to get rid of them. When should I put down the preventive grub control after I treat with sevin. I know that sevin only kills active grubs, but I want to put something down to prevent them from coming back? When should I do this? Great site you have here, and thanks for all your help!

  4. We have a grub problem at the minute and the crows are making such a mess of the lawn after them.We are worried about using chemicals as we have hens and they have a run about each day.Any suggestions? Thanks J.Radford

  5. Grub x works fine and cheaper.

  6. thanks for the information. Very helpful!

  7. It is now November and most of my front lawn graa was raked away due to grubs this past spring/summer. I am left with dry dirt patches with holes in them. Is there any treatment for this late in the year? Anything I can drop into these holes? Do I have to wait until April to now treat?

  8. Pingback: Eating Well Will Grub Ex Harm Organically Treated Lawn « Recipes for Health

  9. BAYER Grub Killer in Home depot shows to contain 9.7% Dylox vs. the 6.2 (or 6.2%) Dylox in the green Bayer bag…can i assume the Home Depot 9.7% version is a better product since it has more Dylox ??

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